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* If a character joins up and tells you that they need to get somewhere, try to head that way as soon as you can. It's easy to get sidetracked and that particular NPC may leave you for good.  
* If a character joins up and tells you that they need to get somewhere, try to head that way as soon as you can. It's easy to get sidetracked and that particular NPC may leave you for good.  


* Try not to miss out on the stat tomes, the powerful artifact just east of the Friendly Arm entrance, and the very useful item hidden in the farm fields in Nashkel.
* Try not to miss out on the powerful artifact just east of the Friendly Arm entrance and the very useful item hidden in the farm fields in Nashkel.


* Stats: Strength, Dexterity, Constitution, Intelligence, Wisdom, Charisma. 10 is average, 18 is the best starting score for a human. They're very "top-heavy": for most stats, 14 is no better than 10, 16 is only a little better, and 17 or 18 is where it starts getting really good.
* Your party should include at least a Cleric, a Wizard, a frontline fighter, and someone with thief skills. Most of these roles can be multiclassed if necessary (a Cleric/Mage is fine, for example.)


* Armor Class: Your defence against physical attacks. Lower is better. 10 is the worst. Based off your armor, shield, any magic protective spells/equipment, and your Dexterity AC bonus.
* Don't hoard your consumables, use them whenever things get rough.


* THAC0: Your attack rating. The number you need to roll (on a 20-sided die) to hit a 0 Armor Class. Lower is better. 20 is the worst.
* The Golden Pantaloons can be carried over to the sequel and doing so while also finding and holding on to that game's set of Pantaloons will eventually net you an interesting reward in the sequel's expansion.


* Saving Throws: Your non-physical defenses, against stuff like magic attacks, poison, and so on. You need to roll equal to or above your ST value on a 20-sided die. Lower is better.
==Character Stats==


* Your party should include (at the minimum) a cleric, a wizard, a frontline fighter, and someone with thief skills. Most of these roles can be multiclassed if necessary (a cleric/mage is fine, for example.)
* '''Attributes''': Strength, Dexterity, Constitution, Intelligence, Wisdom, Charisma. Most attributes are very top-heavy, 17/18 is where they start having real impact while the difference between 10 and 14 is minimal.


* AD&D rules are MUCH more complicated than D&D 3rd Ed, but you don't need to know most of them.  
* '''Armor Class''': Lower is better, 10 is the worst. Your defence against physical attacks that's based off your Dexterity bonus, armor, shield and any magic protective spells/equipment.


* Use your damn consumables. Again, this applies to a lot of rpgs of this type. I've yet to run into any rpg where using consumables left me in some impossible situation later. Indeed, if I'm really blitzing hard, some fights are damn hard without them and more easily manageable with them, and they make for memorable and interesting battles that would otherwise be cakewalks due to overleveling/powering before tackling the main story (see point 1).
* '''THAC0''': Lower is better, 20 is the worst. Your attack rating, equal to the number you need to roll on a 20-sided die to hit 0 Armor Class.


* In BG1, you will come across Golden Pantaloons. They seem useless, but don't throw them away, keep them until the end of the game. They're one of the few items that transfer over into BG2, where you'll find 2 similar items (one's in ToB, actually).
* '''Saving Throws''': Lower is better. Your non-physical defenses against magic attacks, poison, etc. To succeed at a save, you need to roll equal to or above your Saving Throw value on a 20-sided die.  


[[Category:Games]]
[[Category:Games]]
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